Designing for Strength
Stained glass work has been around for centuries.
How does glass and metal stand up to the weather and wear for all that time?
Old pieces have survived the test of time by the structure design, the “skeleton” is what keeps the piece strong. It is really not a skeleton but it is the solder and lead lines that hold the piece together.
If you have huge pieces of glass you will need lots of solder lines around it to support it and keep it from breaking.
Thistle Panel by Kim S Joy, that is my logo. Notice solder lines to support long purple pieces on sides and in the light blue sky to support the blue as well.
When designing a piece of stained glass you have to think about all the weak points such as hinge points large, long and narrow pieces. All these pieces will affect the integrity of the work.
Unfinished student piece with many problem areas- the 2 clear pieces that look like crowns on the right and left side of panel, 2 clear thin pieces at top and bottom of the circle. There are other problems with the panel- copper foil wrapping was not secure and came off while soldering, some big gaps as pieces did bot fit together well, solding is rough- not enough flux, not enough foil to solder to. The paper pattern should have been slid out as to not buckle and cause the glass to not be flat on soldering board.
Framing will help. A double channeled zinc with a piece of rebar slid in the closed chamber will add outer strength. Copper restrip can be added to solder lines to add strength to inner pieces. If you are using lead came be sure to glass cement to keep it from rattling and movement. Tinned copper wire can be hidden in solder lines to add support to delicate curves and fragile pieces.
If you would like to learn more please feel free to reach out to me at kim@kimsjoy.com and we can chat.
My logo was made from the stained glass panel in the beginning of this journal post.
